I really enjoyed getting lost in Alfama, the oldest and the poorest neighbourhood in Lisbon. It resembled a gigantic maze with all its crooked backstreets, steep stairways, and tiny passages that make it difficult for two persons not to bump into each other. Over the centuries, Alfama grew organically or, I should say, chaotically with no particular structure and order. Maybe that's why it's the most authentic and beloved by some many people part of Lisbon?
Although GPS makes it easier to navigate in Alfama, try to do it on your own. The rule of thumb is that if you keep climbing up, you'll eventually get to a lookout with a great view of the lower city and the Tagus river.
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Unlike most of Lisbon that was almost completely destroyed in 1755 by a massive earthquake and the subsequent tsunami and fire, Alfama remained surprisingly intact due to its elevation and, I guess, a good fortune.
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The name "Alfama" comes from the Arabic word "Al-hamma" which means "hot fountains".
Portugal was under the Moorish (European Muslim) rule for over three centuries, and Alfama is one of the few places in Lisbon that reminds about that time. Alfama looks more like it belongs to Morocco than to a European country.
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In fact, Portuguese language has lots of words from Arabic. Everything that starts with "Al" is of Arabic origin.
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Fado is a music genre rooted in Alfama. I didn't particularly enjoy it as it's a bit melancholic, but places to listen to it are abundant in Alfama.
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While in Alfama, do not miss a traditional cherry liqueur called Ginja. Vendors often sell it of a small table or even a stool, and its price ranges from 1 to 2 euro per glass.
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Residents who lived toward the upper part of the slope in Alfama must have been relieved when a streetcar / tram was built in 1873. Electric streetcars completely replaced horse-powered ones in 1901.
Route 28 is the most scenic out of five currently in operation. I doubt local people ever take it as it's always packed with tourists.
Whether you're up to hiking, or want to take a streetcar instead, make sure you get to one of the many lookouts in Alfama to see a sunset. It's an great experience. Enjoy!
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