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Diablos Rojos, Canal, Jungle Trails, and Seven Other Things I Liked About Panama
8/10/2025During my recent trip to Panama, I discovered a country full of contrasts, where an old Spanish charm meets urbanism, jungle trails lead to hidden waterfalls, and the most delicious meal is less than $5. From observing huge ships maneuvering through the historical canal to navigating island life by water taxi, each experience revealed something unexpected. In this post, I’m sharing 10 personal moments that shaped my journey: from cultural encounters and engineering marvels to rainforest hikes and riding loud and proud buses. Panama surprised me, challenged me, and left me hungry for more - literally and figuratively.
1. Casco Viejo: a pure gem with rough edges.
Casco Viejo is the kind of place that makes you reach for your camera every five steps. And actually without a fear of it being stolen. Old Spanish buildings with ornate balconies, pastel facades, and cobblestone streets - everything is postcard-perfect and charming, even it's very old or rundown. But Casco Viejo is also bigger and more gentrified than I expected.
Some buildings are freshly restored, others are crumbling (many of them for sale), and a few are mid-renovation wrapped in scaffolding. Tourists are plentiful, yet the place does not feel overcrowded.
What makes Casco Viejo fascinating is how quickly the illusion breaks. Walk two minutes in the wrong direction and you’re in a completely different world - slums, garbage, stray dogs, and a sudden drop in tourist traffic. Police are first stationed on nearly every corner, and later disappears, a sober reminder that the beauty comes with boundaries.
We happened to have ventured there to buy some food from a big grocery store nearby which we found on Google Maps. It was Saturday night and the party was everywhere: on the streets, on the sidewalks, and even on balconies. It was fun to watch, but we were clearly out of place, so after shopping, we didn't want to take any more chances and decided to catch a taxi back to our hotel. We paid a "whooping" $5 for a good 15-minute ride.
2. The buses: loud, proud, and with chickens in baskets.
Panama’s extensive bus system was as much a mode of transportation as a cultural experience for us. We found that riding a bus in Panama is comfortable and safe. Every bus had a driver and a conductor, and they operated with a kind of organized yet chaotic efficiency. Want to get on? Just wave anywhere, no need to be at a bus stop. Or better: a bus driver will honk you, and if you don't need a ride, just look away. Payments happen at the end of a ride, except in Panama City, where you won't be able to pass a turnstile on a bus unless you pay.
Panama is a tropical country, so it's always hot in lowlands, yet it can get pretty chilly up in the mountains. Luckily, A/C is the must on every bus, so you won't have to suffer. But as we were crossing a continental divide on the bus from David to Almirante, a conductor manually fly-opened all windows without even asking people if they were ok with it. Wind was blowing in all directions - a fun ride!
It's actually even more fun to ride a bus as people bring chickens, vendors hop on to sell snacks, drinks, and even a $3 perfume. You’ll likely hear music from different sources as, for some strange reason, passengers like to listen to music without using their headphones. On all long routes, like Panama City to David, there’s a pit stop halfway through. And I have to tell you: the food at these roadside stops is some of the best we had in Panama.
Then there are the Diablos Rojos, a special species worth mentioning here. Those are retired school buses from the US turned into rolling art installations. Repainted in bright colours, equipped with with chrome, neon lights, and bunch of stickers, they’re impossible to miss. Some have portraits of the driver’s family or a favourite singer on the back door. They exhale black smoke, often keep doors open, and blast loud music - clearly those buses are more than just a vehicle - they’re a source of pride!
3. Zapatilla Island: a paradise with a garbage problem.
Zapatilla Island looks like it was pulled straight from a travel brochure - white sand, turquoise water, and palm trees swaying in the light breeze.
It’s part of a national park, and a ranger will check your day pass before you even step off the boat. Luckily, boat operators will remind you to buy a pass a few times, so you won't have to rely on spotty cellphone reception once you reach the island.
Once you’re on the island, a different reality sets in. There’s garbage. Not a whole lot, but enough to notice. Plastic bottles, candy wrappers, and other debris litter the sand and hide in the bushes.
Despite some trash, the beach itself is a solid 10 out of 10. The water is warm, the sand is soft, and people are relaxed. We’d heard there were trails, but after some wandering inland, we found nothing but dense vegetation and a bunch of coconut shells. But hey - it's a beach island, so everything is great. If you ask my opinion, the island is definitely worth the boat ride!
4. Lost and Found hostel: hot showers in the middle of a jungle.
Reaching the Lost and Found Hostel is a workout in itself - one kilometre uphill with a backpack on a narrow trail with roots and rocks. I've read many reviews of this hostel and some people bring big spinner wheel luggage... Oh boy.
But once you have arrived, it feels like a hidden retreat in the clouds. Located quite high in the mountains in the Fortuna ecological reserve, the views are stunning. You’re literally above the clouds. The hostel is rustic but cozy, with optional communal dinners every night at 6:00 p.m. You know, it’s a place where strangers become friends over lentils, rice, and domestic beer for $1 per can.
What sets this hostel apart isn’t just the views or the food - it’s the vibe. There are yoga spots right in the forest, friendly pets roaming around (some wild monkeys also live nearby, but we didn't see them), and beautiful trails that start right at your doorstep. I wished we spent more time there, it's not just a place to stay - it's a destination on its own.
We spotted three different kinds of hummingbirds. It was very fun to watch them feast on sugary water. According to fellow travelers, this was the only hostel in their three-month trip across Costa Rica and Panama that had hot showers. That alone makes it a five-star experience, doesn't it?
5. Fried chicken and chicha: the best kind of meal.
If Panama had a national dish, it might just be fried chicken. It’s everywhere - from roadside stands to sit-down restaurants. And it’s consistently good. The spice blend in Panama is distinct, the skin is crispy, and the meat is juicy. It’s the kind of food that makes you hungry just thinking about it.
Then there’s chicha - a sweet, fruity drink that comes in different variations. Some are made with real fruit, others with dairy, and some taste like tropical milkshakes. You’ll find them in fast food joints, mom-and-pop restaurants, and even on the buses.
Overall, Panama’s food scene leans heavily on fried meat and vegetables - chicken, pork, fish, plantains. And sugary drinks. Diet sodas are rare, because Panamanians love their sugar. And honestly? After a few days, we did too.
6. Cloud forest: in the search for quetzals.
It’s called a cloud forest for a reason. The moment you step into one, the air changes - thicker, cooler, and carrying a distinct earthy scent that’s somewhere between “fresh moss” and “rotting leaves.” Afternoon showers are common, even outside the rainy season, and the clouds roll in like fog machines on a movie set.
The flora is spectacular. Orchids hug to tree trunks, bromeliads sprout from branches, and lianas hang like giant ropes.
But it’s not just plants you need to watch for. Panama’s rainforests are home to a surprising number of creatures: birds, monkeys, snakes, spiders, and yes, even jaguars (though we didn’t see one, thankfully). Ants are so numerous and hard-working - they paved a visible trail!
Hiking here is a sensory overload - lush, loud, and occasionally slippery enough to make you question your footwear choices.
7. New Panama City: a playground for rich with glass towers and barb wires.
Going into waterfront neighbourhoods of Punta Paitilla and Bella Vista feels like entering a different country. Suddenly, you’re surrounded by glass skyscrapers, manicured parks, people walking dogs, and bike paths that wouldn’t look out of place in Toronto or Vancouver.
There are tennis courts, outdoor gyms, and even a Tim Hortons next to Louis Vuitton with the sign "Delicious Coffee and Food" - yes, I'm not joking.
The multi-use path along the Pacific offers stunning views, though the smell near the water can be... less than ideal. Still, it’s a polished, modern face of Panama City that feels worlds away from the rest of the country.
But even here, the contrasts are impossible to ignore. Next to luxury condos, you’ll find buildings with peeling paint and barbed wire. Inequality is stark - Panama ranks among the top countries for income disparity. The wealthy live here, in air-conditioned towers with ocean views, while much of the country struggles with poverty. It’s a city of juxtapositions: wealth and slums, beauty and decay, all sharing the same skyline.
8. Jungle waterfalls: cold, hidden, and stunning.
Panama’s waterfalls aren’t towering giants, but they make up for it in charm. Most are hidden deep in the rainforest, accessible only by hiking trails that go through dense vegetation. They’re often grouped together so if you find one, you’ll likely find two or three more nearby. The water is cold, which is surprising for such a warm climate, but their pools are good for a quick dip after a hot hike.
Some waterfalls have a bluish tint thanks to mineral-rich sediments from the mountains. It gives them an almost surreal glow. These aren’t tourist traps with fences and gift shops: they’re wild, often unmarked, and feel like secrets waiting to be discovered.
Just be ready for mud, slippery rocks, and occasional insects (note we didn't see any mosquitos, but I can't guarantee you won't have them so bring an insect repellent). The reward? A private jungle pool with the sound of rushing water and nothing else.
9. Water taxis in the Bocas del Toro: island-hopping on a budget.
In Bocas del Toro, water taxis are the only way to get around. Isla Colón is the main hub, but from there, boats speed between islands like aquatic Ubers.
The system is informal but efficient - call a taxi, and it might show up in three minutes… or fifteen. I once had to call three times. Prices are low: we paid $5 for a 30-minute ride and a $1 fare was standard between the main island and the one we stayed on - Carenero.
But there’s a catch: if you ask how much it costs, you’ll probably be quoted more. Best to know the rate and have exact change ready.
The rides themselves are scenic, if occasionally bumpy. You’ll pass mangroves, fishing boats, and the occasional dolphin. It’s a reminder that in Panama, the sea isn’t just for swimming - it’s a highway, a livelihood, and a way of life.
10. Traditional clothing: a cultural identify embedded into daily life.
One of the most striking things about Panama is how visible its indigenous cultures are. Traditional clothing isn’t reserved for festivals - it’s worn daily, especially in the Chiriquí province.
In Panama City, we also saw the Kuna people. They live mostly on the San Blas Islands, wear vibrant, embroidered outfits.
Interestingly, we witnessed two road closures due to indigenous protests in Chiriquí. They were peaceful and brief - limited to two hours by law - but I'm sure had impact as the roads they closed were some of the most important in the country.
Locals told us the protests were about resource exploitation. The central government benefits from indigenous lands but gives little in return.
Afterword.
Panama isn’t a place you just visit - it’s a place that leaves an impression. I know these 11 experiences only scratched the surface, but they definitely gave me a deeper appreciation for the country’s complexity, beauty, and contradictions.
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