The Magdalen Islands (Les Îles-de-la-Madeleine) in Québec are a lively yet laid-back destination where life slows down and your senses become more real. Time here follows the rhythm of the nature rather than fixed schedules and each day brings its own palette of colours and moods. The peaceful atmosphere of the islands not only draws in creative minds seeking inspiration, but also regular people wanting to leave the hustle and bustle of the mainland behind and feel a "joie de vivre" or "joy of life", an unofficial motto of the province of Québec.
The islands are located in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence and consist of 12 islands, six of which are connected by narrow sand dunes. Together, they form a crescent shape stretching nearly 90 km. While the archipelago may look small on a map, driving from one end to the other takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, so the distance is definitely noticeable.
Entry Island is the only inhabited island not connected by road; it’s accessible only by ferry. It stands out on the horizon thanks to Big Hill, the highest point in the archipelago at 174 metres / 570 ft. According to our taxi driver, there’s not much to do there besides walking and occasionally spotting cows. It usually means it's a hidden gem!
The Magdalen Islands have a population of around 13,000. Most residents speak French, but about 5% are English speakers. Many locals, known as Madelinots, are proud Acadians - descendants of those who escaped deportation by the British after their victory over the French in 1763. A second wave of Acadians arrived after the French Revolution. Due to the islands’ isolation, Madelinots developed a distinct accent that’s easily recognized by other Quebecers.
We were fortunate to visit during the annual Acadian festival and take part in some of the celebrations. Nearly every house flew the Acadian flag which resembles the French flag but features a gold star on the blue stripe. The people were incredibly friendly and open, eager to share their way of life and heritage.
Most islanders work during the busy summer season - typically 10 to 12 weeks - and then enjoy a slower pace for the rest of the year. Our taxi driver joked that many locals spend their off-season drinking, though we took that with a grain of salt. There is a small fishing industry, with roots going back 250 years, when fishing was essential for survival rather than recreation.
While the islands are somewhat pricey, they’re not as expensive as you might expect for such a remote location. Grocery and gas prices are similar to those in Montreal or Québec City. A taxi from the ferry terminal to La Grave cost us $55, and the ride from there to the airport was $80. Biking is a great way to get around as the terrain is mostly flat with gentle hills.
Thanks to the surrounding ocean, the climate is mild year-round. Summer temperatures rarely exceed 25°C, and winter temperatures seldom drop below -15°C. A cool breeze makes air conditioning unnecessary in summer, and snowfall in winter is usually light.
The islands’ flora is quite different from mainland Québec due to the sandy dunes that dominate the shoreline. There’s a wide variety of grasses and wildflowers, and while I’m not a botanist, they smell amazing. Forests are rather rare and mostly consist of short evergreen trees like fir and spruce. The sandy soil, constant saltwater exposure, and strong winds - especially in colder months - make it difficult for deciduous trees and crops like potatoes, soy, wheat, or corn to grow.
One of the biggest draws to the Magdalen Islands is the beaches. I was surprised by how warm the water was - around 22–23°C! With over 300 km / 185 miles of sandy shoreline, it’s easy to find a quiet, secluded spot. Paradise!
But beaches here aren’t just for swimming and sunbathing. The annual sandcastle competition at Sandy Hook Beach (L’Île‑du‑Havre‑Aubert) is one of the largest in the world. Held every August, it showcases incredible creativity and mastery.
My favourite sculptures were the Disney characters and the Aztec pyramid. Judging must be tough - there are so many impressive entries! The sand itself is very fine and makes a squeaky sound when you walk on it, almost like a seal’s call.
The lagoons, nestled between two sand dunes and connected to the ocean by narrow channels, are rich in wildlife like birds and shellfish. They’re also popular for windsurfing and kitesurfing. In fact, kitesurfing is so popular that there are three schools offering lessons.
My favourite activity on the islands was hiking the Trail Between Winds and Tides (Sentiers Entre Vents et Marées).
My wife and I only explored a small part of the 230 km trail system, but we still experienced steep, colourful cliffs, rounded hills, grassy valleys, endless ocean views, and plenty of charming houses and farms. It’s one of those rare places where man-made structures actually enhance the scenery.
One memorable moment was spotting a young cow hiding in tall grass: her reddish fur matched the nearby sandstone cliffs.
Getting there
Reaching the Magdalen Islands takes a bit of planning, but it’s well worth the effort. I was very surprised none of my friends knew about this place! Most visitors arrive by ferry from Souris, Prince Edward Island. It’s a scenic five-hour journey across the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. The CTMA Ferry has been operating since 1944 and runs year-round, making up to two daily runs in the high season. If you take a car during this time, it’s essential to book in advance.
The ferry even offers staterooms, and the atmosphere onboard is lively and festive. Passengers mingle, enjoy the views, and settle into vacation mode before they even arrive to the islands.
Alternatively, you can fly into Îles-de-la-Madeleine Airport from Montreal, Québec City, Gaspé, or Newfoundland. Once on the islands, renting a car or using taxis is common, although biking is a great option thanks to the mostly flat terrain. Enjoy!
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